This was one of a box of bottles that I picked up on a shopping loop in Washington, D.C. over the Christmas-New Year’s holiday season. I’ve been expanding my exploration of peated scotches and, after a lot of research, Glenglassaugh Portsoy, with its three-cask aging, sounded right up my alley.
Released in 2023 as part of a brand re-branding, Portsoy is a coastal Highlands region non-age stated scotch and uses 100% “heavily peated” malted barley according to master distiller/blender Dr. Rachel Barrie, who is also master blender at The Glendronach and Benriach. It is non-chill filtered and has natural color from the cask aging. It is 2x-distilled in copper pot stills and is bottled at 98.2 proof (49.1% ABV) after being brought to bottling proof using mineral-rich spring water from Glenglassaugh. Aging is done in ex-bourbon, unspecified ex-sherry, and unspecified ex-port casks. The phenol parts per million (PPM) peat level isn’t publicly available but unofficial estimates put the PPM level at ~30 ppm and the final ppm level after distillation and aging at anywhere between ~10-25 ppm.
The aroma profile is immediately captivating with a blast of tropical and orchard fruits, floral and herbal peat and a smokiness reminiscent of being not-too-far-away from a campfire/bonfire/BBQ, candied citrus fruits, and a strong umami quality.
On the palate there are flavors of fresh and grilled tropical and orchard fruits, dried fruits, salinity, that same floral and herbal peat/campfire/BBQ smokiness, fruity vanilla and light caramel, light cocoa powder, a mélange of spices (cinnamon, nutmeg, black pepper), anise/licorice, and that umami quality. The earthiness, herbal and floral notes, and the smokiness remind me very much of flavor profile notes that I really enjoy also on earthier tequilas and non-tequila mezcals.
Portsoy is a revelation when it comes to peated scotches and it will be a regular bottle on my bar shelves. Highland Park and Oban opened the door to peated scotches and the Glenglassaugh Portsoy is the next step in my exploratory journey – and I’m so glad that I found it!
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